Understanding Oregon Filing Tables

When it comes to sharpening chains for chainsaws, the filing table will provide you with all the information that you need to achieve a sharp chain.

However, different manufacturers mark their chains differently, and not all filing tables are created equally. This short presentation takes a look at how to get the information required to sharpen an Oregon chain.

Find out more after the jump...

The filing table allows us to glean certain pieces of information that we will need to know if we are to correctly sharpen the chain; things like the size of the file, the filing angle, and the depth gauge setting can all be found by using it. Watch the following presentation to learn (or revise) how to use the Oregon filing table.

Understanding Filing Tables

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Understanding Chain Ident.

Over the last few chainsaw maintenance courses that I've run, it's become obvious that there is some confusion over how to identify a chain. So, if this is something that you're not entirely sure about, here's your chance to get it nailed. Read on for more information...

Perhaps the easiest way to find out how to identify the chain correctly is to have a look at the following table. We'll just stick to Oregon, Stihl and Husqvarna...

	Oregon	Stihl	Husqvarna
No. on drive link	ID #. Look up in filing table.	Chain gauge. Ignore for now.	ID #. Look up in filing table.
No. on depth gauge.	Depth gauge setting in thousandths of an inch.	Chain pitch. Look up in filing table.	N/A

For Oregon and Stihl chains you'll also need to compare the cutter profile with that described in the filing table - that way you'll ensure you are looking at the relevant chain information.

Take a look at this previous post if you need to convert between Stihl's terminology for cutter profiles and others... Name Your Chain

Oregon Maintenance Manual

Oregon, who are possibly one of the largest (if not the largest) suppliers of after-market chainsaw accessories also produce a useful booklet about their chains and general maintenance hints and tips. Find out more after the jump...

The booklet, which is available as a paper version can also be downloaded over the web as a PDF document (for which you will need Adobe Acrobat Reader). The booklet covers information about Oregon's own chains, detailing filing angles, file sizes, pitch and gauge information, as well as pictures of the chain profile. It also includes several pages of maintenance hints and tips and is worth taking a look at - I carry one around with me when training as it's quite a useful little reference and the paper version is a fairly compact little booklet.

OK, so it may not win any major book awards, but it's free and is a handy little guide to boot. Get your copy at http://www.oregonchain.co.uk/pdfs/MaintManual_English.pdf

Chain Sharpening (Part 3)...

Continuing on our journey to achieving a sharp, effective chain, in this post we'll look at the depth gauges and find out one way of setting them. More after the jump...

The depth gauge at the front of the cutter fulfils an important function - to regulate how much timber is actually cut. For this reason, it's important to keep these set at the correct height relative to the cutting edge - left too high and you'll not get an efficient cut, too low and you'll try taking too much wood out in one pass.

Leaving the cutter too high will occur if you don't check and set it regularly - as you sharpen the cutting edge, the height of that edge is actually reducing, and that means that you'll not be cutting as much as you could do. So, with the depth gauge left too high, by not setting it...

• Inefficient cutting as you could be cutting deeper.


• Takes longer to carry out the task.

But that's just mildly irritating when compared to the potential disaster that could await you if you decide to file the depth gauges down to much, and therefore try to cut too much timber in one go. So, for filing the depth gauges too low...

• ...you'll be trying to cut too much wood.


• ...vibration from the chainsaw increases dramatically.


• ...the saw may appear to be less powerful as it tries to keep up with the cut.


• But, worst of all, you massively increase the chance of kickback.

The tolerances for the depth gauge are fairly small, and 25 thou (0.65mm) is not uncommon. To maintain this setting there are a number of devices available on the market, from Stihl, Husqvarna and Oregon et al.

We'll take a look at some of these later on, but for now we'll use the simplest Depth Gauge Tool.

This tool, shown in the picture, can be laid on top of the chain with the notch at one end allowing the depth gauge to poke up through. You will need to remember two things if it needs to be filed down:

1. You must only file depth gauges on the other side of the bar to you.


2. You shouldn't file the depth gauge with the tool in place, otherwise you will effectively be altering the measurements set by using this tool.

Whilst you might be able to see the depth gauge poking up through the tool, it's easier to use a straight edge to run over the notched end of the tool. If the depth gauge is too high then it will catch on your straight edge.

If your depth gauge tool is like the one shown in these images, you should leave the tool in place whilst you file... but lift the back end up first. This has two advantages: 1) it uncovers the depth gauge giving you access to file it, and 2) it protects the cutting edge that you just sharpened.

That's about it really, work around one side, checking and setting as appropriate before turning the saw around and doing the other side.

Chain Sharpening: Part 1...

Sharpening your chain is one of those necessary evils that we all have to do in order to keep the chainsaw cutting efficiently, a dull, worn cutter is just not effective at getting through the wood and it'll tire you out, making life harder.

So, for an easy life with your chainsaw it's worth learning the art of sharpening the chain - it'll save you having to take the chain to your local garden machinery centre to have it sharpened and that means saving you money. How's that then, this site is already making your like easier and saving you money.

In order to sharpen your chain though, there's a few things that you need to know first - find out more after the jump.

To maintain your chain at it's most efficient and effective, you need to know something about your chain to find out the following details...

• What file size you should use.
• What filing angle you should be using.
• What the depth gauge setting should be (you do remember that the depth gauge on the cutter regulates how much wood gets cut don't you?)

To do this you have to know how to identify your chain, then you can set about finding the information you need. Let's take a look at chain ident.

Chain Identification

If you click on the image at the top left of this post, you'll see that the chain has some numbers on it (this particular chain is made by Oregon - one of the largest producers of after-market equipment for chainsaws).

The numbers appear on both the drive link and the cutter - or more specifically the depth gauge on the cutter. These numbers give us some clues to the chains identity - but be warned... Oregon, Stihl and Husqvarna all mark their chains differently, the numbers may be in the same place but the meanings differ. So here's your simple guide around the murky world of chain identification.

Oregon

Looking at that image again we can see that on the drive link is the number '18' and on the depth gauge, '50' appears. With Oregon chains the number appearing on the drive link is an I.D. number that you can cross-reference with a filing table.

The image above shows an Oregon filing table, these are pretty easy to use and your first step is to take a look down the left hand side and find the row which relates to the number of your chain.

Our particular example shows a number '18' chain - look down the bottom of the table and you'll find a row marked '18H*'; that's ours. Reading across the row, we find the following information (L-R):

• File size: 5.5mm round file.
• Depth gauge setting: 1.2mm (or 50 thou').
• Filing angle(1): we would need to hold the file 10^o down, while...
• Sharpening angle: ...pulling it back 35^o to ensure the correct cutting angle.
• Side plate angle: 85^o. Forget about this for a moment - we'll deal with this in a later post.
• Cutter profile: this is the profile of our chain - notice Oregon don't call it a chisel, semi-chisel or chipper; this is also true of Stihl. All you need to be sure of is that the profile matches the chain you are holding (you are wearing gloves whilst you hold that chain aren't you?).

But what if you have a #21 or #22 chain? Looking down the left hand column shows that there are two rows with these I.D. numbers - and the information within those rows is different. So how do you choose which one is yours? Easy - look over at the right hand side at the profile pictures, compare it to your cutter profile and whichever one matches is your row.

Stihl

Stihl do things differently, and the numbers on the chain refer to different things compared to Oregon (and Husqvarna). It's not better or worse, just different.

The number on the drive link of a Stihl chain relates to the gauge of that chain and you'll see one of the following:

1, 3, 5, 6, 8, 0

These figures relate to the normal gauge sizes of:

1.1, 1.3, 1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0mm

The number on the cutter shows the pitch of the chain and will be listed as:

325, 3/8 or 404

We can use this pitch information to find the data we need for sharpening the chain; just search for all the chains with your pitch and refer to the chain type. We'll cover this in more detail in another post, as Stihl refer to their chains as Rapid, Picco, Super, Micro and Standard.

Husqvarna

Husqvarna have made it very easy. Just take a look at the number on the drive link, look down the Husqvarna filing table for the same number and there you have it.

Simple.

Next post... we'll take a look at the naming convention used by different manufacturers for their chain.

Related Posts:

[HD VIDEO]: Sharpening The Chain