Having just completed the audio programme for underpinning knowledge for small fell, in this episode we'll take a look at the guidance given for the Level 3 Award for Felling & Processing Trees Over 380mm.
There is some overlap between the 'small' fell and the 'medium / large' fell assessments, and as before I've left gaps of a few seconds between the different criteria in the assessment. You can download the qualification guidance directly from NPTC.
Here it is...
Showing posts with label chainsaw. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chainsaw. Show all posts
The All New Chipper Course... Has it gone legislation mad?
Or is it? We all know it's important to maintain health and safety standards - we work in a dangerous industry after all, and stupid 'mistakes' are still being made such as this example where a worker lost an arm in a chipper, and this example of an unsupervised and untrained teenager operating a chipper who lost his toes after pushing the brash into it. These aren't accidents from decades ago either... how is it there is still such ignorance about the law surrounding this equipment?
All of the new Level 2 Awards have a common thread through them - risk assessment, emergency planning, and legislation - and I think that's a good thing, but why does the Level 2 Woodchippers talk about the following NINE regulations...
- Management of Health & Safety At Work Act '99
- Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations '98
- Control of Vibration at Work Regulations '05
- Personal Protective Equipment Regulations '92
- Manual Handling Operations Regulations '92
- Noise at Work Regulations '89
- COSHH
- "Countryside and Wildlife Act '81" (shouldn't that be the Wildlife and Countryside Act anyway?
- RIDDOR
...when the Level 2 chainsaw maintenance and crosscutting only has:
- Health & Safety at Work Act
- PUWER
- AFAG guides (no mention of INDG317: Chainsaws At Work or the FISA guides which have taken over from some of the formally relevant AFAG guides)
No mention of RIDDOR there... and no mention of the PPE regulations either... or the manual handling regs, control of vibration, noise at work, or COSHH for that matter! All of which apply equally to using chainsaws as much as using the chipper.
Perhaps City & Guilds NPTC should consider separating out the legislative stuff and running it as a distinct assessment? Then enforcing refresher training on this.
What do you think?
Need a chainsaw trainer?
But first, one of the reasons why I've not been posting on here is that I left my job as Forestry & Arboriculture Short Course Manager at Sparsholt College to go out on my own. At the time, I was busy with woodfuel and the wood heat industry, as well as continuing to deliver some training at Sparsholt.
This post then, is just to let you know that if you require a contract chainsaw trainer, please do get in touch with me directly on 0790 067 7715 or via the contact form to the right.
My experience:
I spent 8 years managing and delivering forestry and arboriculture short courses at Sparsholt College:
- CS30 / L2 Award in Chainsaw Maintenance & Cross-Cutting
- CS31 / L2 Award in Felling and Processing of Trees up to 380mm.
- CS32 / L3 Award in Felling and Processing of Trees over 380mm
- CS38 / L2 Award in Tree Climbing & Aerial Rescue
- CS39 / L3 Award in Aerial Cutting of Tress
- as well as stump grinding, woodchipper operations and MEWP operations.
I have an excellent reputation for training, and believe in providing inclusive training to help everyone achieve their goals.
Contact me via the form on the right, or call me on 0790 067 7715 to discuss your training requirements.
Blast From The Past
Just before Xmas a friend of mine turned up at DriveLink HQ with this saw - cheers Glenn! It's an old Stihl 08 and we thought it might be worth cleaning it up and checking it out - not that we're going to use it as by today's standards this thing is seen as unsafe. Find out more after the jump...
I've not actually had a chance to look over it yet, I just popped it on top of some logs to take the picture above, but one thing is for sure... it's lacking in what we would consider to be modern safety features! There's no chain brake for starters. There's no AV mounts (at least none that are immediately obvious - perhaps I'll find some once I start disassembling it). And it weighs a ton compared to modern saws, being built entirely out of metal. Oh, there's also no safety throttle, and you can put the saw to full power and then lock it in that position.
I'll post back about this saw occasionally, let you know what I find and if it's worth restoring / repairing it then we'll do that and you can up-to-date with the proceedings.
Choosing A Chainsaw
I've been working with WoodlandsTV to produce a basic guide to choosing a chainsaw, aimed at small woodland owners... and it's available online (for free!). We're also planning to shoot some more video in the near future, we just need to decide when!
The video takes a very quick look at a mix of Husqvarna and Stihl chainsaws, and I must thank Winchester Garden Machinery for the loan of these saws for the filming. If you're reading these pages you may well find the video a little too basic, but as mentioned above, if you've just taken on a small woodland and want to purchase a saw then check it out, it might just give you an appreciation of what to look for - of course, you can always contact me through the comments for any further advice (if I can help I will!).
You can view the video by going to http://www.woodlands.co.uk/tv/2011/09/choosing-a-chainsaw-mov/.
Bad Habits: Part One.
It always amazes me just how quickly new students pick up bad habits. I've lost count of the times that students returning to me for more chainsaw tuition have got into bad ways! I kind of expect 'old-hands' at using saws to have already fallen into bad habits, but not people who have just passed their CS30 and are coming back after a couple of months to do their CS31! So what are these common pitfalls? Find out more after the jump...There are several, common poor practices that I see again and again, and in the first of a short series I'll be picking up on these and try to explain why they're such a heinious crime not a good idea.
In this first one, we'll take a look at the Wandering Thumb Syndrome. You can probably make out in the picture above that this student has moved their thumb on to the top of the front handle. Not a good move, and a potential failure point on your assessment.
So why is this so bad? After all, it's often quite comfortable working this way, but the problem starts should you suffer from kickback. What's going to happen to the handle when the tip of the bar contacts some timber and throws the saw back? The saw handle will come out of your left hand as there's nothing to stop it.
Compare that with keeping your thumb around the handle... try it out, just hold a saw with your thumb on top of the handle, and then wrapped around it. You'll see that if you were to get any kickback, the handle just pushes back into that squashy part of your hand between thumb and forefinger.
So, for your own safety (and to get you through the assessment!) always keep your hand securely on the front handle, and that means keeping your thumb round it.
CS30 Risk Assessment
I've noticed that lately, students seem to having difficulty recalling the information regarding risk assessments - so I've created a podcast to try and help out. Find out more after the jump...
And here it is! Click on the podcast player to listen to the podcast; I hope it helps you remember the relevant information for your CS30 assessment.
New video is out now...
Well it took somewhat longer than expected for reasons, but the new DriveLink video is now out for viewing. Find out more after the jump...
The DriveLink videos are proving to be pretty popular, having now been viewed more than 175,000 times; and I'm pleased to say that I can include a new video on to the list..
This five minute video looks at the split level cut, but I wanted to show more than that. If you're taking your NPTC felling assessment, then you know that you have to get a tree hung-up, and then deal with it. I thought that one of the worst things that could happen is to complete a split level cut... then get it really hung-up. This is perhaps more important now that the new assessment schedules are up and running, you'll be expected to use a winch if you need to.
So guess what's included in this video..?
Send me your comments about the video - I might just make a slightly longer version of this one, to cover winching in more detail; or should I just create a specific winching video for those of you about to undertake your CS32?
Anyway, I hope you enjoy it.
- David -
- David -
Chainsaw Multi-Tool
Here's a neat took that one of my collegues, Mark, has just got hold of - his downfall was showing it to me! That's it in the picture, find out more after the jump...This multi-tool is specially designed for chainsaws and it seems like a great idea - so let's take a closer look and see if it could be sticking in your toolbox (or on your belt).
The 'Top Saw Pocket Wrench' is pretty small at 4½ inches long, containing all the useful implements one needs to keep a chainsaw running...
- Long reach spark plug spanner (16mm / 19mm)
- 13mm spanner
- 4mm allen key
- Torx driver
- Bar cleaner
- Small flat screwdriver
- Large flat screwdriver
The whole lot fits into a nylon pouch with a belt loop, allowing you to keep the tool close to hand for when you need tweak the idle adjust screw, or sort out the chain tension.
The long reach spanner is reversible, although you'll need to unscrew the Nyloc nut, switch the spanner round to the size you need and then tighten it back up again. However, the chances are that you'll only need one size for most saws, so it's not a problem; but I could imagine that if you need to maintain several saws that use both 19mm and 16mm spark plugs / nuts, it would get a bit tedious swapping it round as you'd need to carry round a Philips screwdriver and a 10mm spanner to swap it round. As I said, if your saw(s) use the same size spark plug, it's not an issue. The 13mm spanner fits on to the smaller nuts that hold on the Husqvarna side plate, but interestingly enough this has two small holes drilled through the side of it, allowing a file to be fitted. This turns the tool into a file handle, and you can keep the file guide on the file as well. Having said that, I found that a 4.8mm (3/16") file wasn't held really securely, but a 5.5mm (7/32") does fit better - I didn't try it with a 4.0mm file. The other slight issue is that there's no way to store the file either on the tool or in the pouch. Still, it's a very simple idea and it does work.
The 4mm allen key fits Husqvarna allen bolts - which would be very useful for my 350 as the exhaust bolts seem to have a habit of working themselves loose!
The Torx driver fits the Stihl & Makita screwheads, allowing you to gain access to the recoil starter and chain brake mechanisms. This makes it a really useful tool with the ability to work with Husqvarna, Stihl and Makita chainsaws.
The large flat screwdriver is perfect for setting chain tension, adjusting the idle screw or removing Stihl air filters, and the small one fits the carburettor H & L screws.
The bar scraper tool will help clean out the debris that inevitably builds up between the rails on the guide bar.
So, is it worth buying one? Yes. My order will be forwarded in due course; having the one tool instead of carrying round separate spanners, screwdrivers and so on, and being able to carry it around in a small case makes this a very useful tool indeed. Check it out at http://topsaw.com.
Dealing WIth Hung Up Trees
If you read some of the articles in this blog site, you'll know that I like to use videos and pictures wherever possible, but I've also wanted to try out something with audio too. So, here's a 5 minute podcast about dealing with hung-up trees. It's just a trial, rather than a full program but I'd like your feedback. Find out more after the jump...
This short podcast aims to take you through dealing with hung-up trees. It's only 5 minutes long and that's not enough time to try and fit in every possibility, but it's hopefully long enough to get an idea of what I'm trying to do.
I'd be grateful for your feedback - is this sort of thing useful to you? As it's an MP3 file it could sit on your iPod nestled between Shania Twain and Leonard Cohen!
Latest Update On Assessments
As I mentioned way back in my last blog article, the chainsaw certification process is to be changed at some point in the future, and I had some doubt as to what the changes would be. However, NPTC had made the proposed schedules available and after reading through them and forwarding on my comments before the consultation period ended, I think (on the whole) the changes would be good. Find out more after the jump...
So what are the changes? Firstly they are proposing to amend the actual structure of the certification, as well as changing the schedules. Here, in brief, is a summary of those changes...
- The risk assessment, emergency planning and various other knowledge elements are to be brought together and made in to a 'knowledge unit' that is to form part of the foundation certificates. The CS30 is the other foundation course and, by and large, remains similar to the existing one.
- The CS31 small fell is to include rope / winch work (winching is currently part of CS32).
- The CS32 (medium fell) is to now include the felling of weighted trees. This is a major change and one which makes some sense as although the same cuts are used as small fell, the method of achieving them is different.
- The climbing and aerial rescue course is to be called CS38 (as it used to be!) and some major changes are being proposed for this; including... a tree identification element where the student will have to recognise 10 different tree species. The aerial rescue will also have to include a pole rescue as well as a 'tree' rescue. I think this is to be applauded and definitely a move in the right direction.
- The CS39, using a chainsaw from a rope and harness, is to have additional cuts added to the schedule. This will result in the student having to complete both horizontal and vertical cuts, which is basically simulating the cuts required for dismantling.
The above summary of changes is only a proposal at the moment, and I'm not sure that anything will happen until LANTRA get the National Occupational Standards approved - which could take some time.
For now, the courses and assessment schedules remain as they are - so I can get back to creating some new videos and writing some more about chainsaw maintenance and cross-cutting.
CS30.1.18: Fuel / Oil Filters
Finally, the last bit of your maintenance assessment - maintaining the fuel and oil filters. Although it's not the end of the test, as you'll still have to get through the crosscutting bit yet! Anyhow, back to the filters, this bit is easy - to find out how easy click on Read More...Well, for starters this is another one of those 'demonstrate knowledge of' activities, and that means just answering a question about it; you're not expected to actually do it.
Do what you may ask? As there is no need to remove the fuel, or oil, filter, you'll be expected to explain how to set about replacing them. This essentially comes down to undoing the fuel / oil tank filler cap, using a bit of bent wire to hook the filter out, removing / replacing it and dropping it back in (you might want to mention about draining the tank out first too). Listen below to the assessment activity for this last section of the maintenance assessment.
CS30.1.17: Service The Recoil Starter
If it hasn't happened to you yet, you can be sure it will do at some point in your 'chainsawing career'. That moment when you pull the starter handle and it just keeps on coming. The cord has snapped and you are going to have to replace it; and so it is with your assessment. Find out more after the jump...Part of the assessment is to simulate the replacement of a starter cord; fortunately you don't need to put a new length of cord in, but you will need to retension the spring and check it's OK. You will also need to tell the assessor where it's most likely to break (essentially at either end). To view the article about recoil starters, check out Recoil Starters, or listen to the relevant bit of the assessment schedule.
CS30.1.16: Service The Spark Plug
Whilst you could be asked about cleaning the electrodes, pointing out erosion, checking plug types and testing the electrode gap with feeler gauges, in reality the assessment is much easier. So, to find out more about this section, click on Read More...You'll need to be able to give the assessor an idea of the state of engine tune based on the colour of deposits on the electrodes.
You can find out more about spark plugs here, or click on the audio broadcast below to hear what the assessment schedule says.
CS30.1.15: Reassemble And Tension Chain
This bit of the assessment is about sticking the bar and chain back on to the saw and then sorting out the tension. Now, there's an emotive issue if ever there was; chain tension. It's something that here at DriveLink HQ we've covered a little bit before, so find out more by clicking on the Read More link...As well as being able to listen to what the assessment schedule says about reassembling and tensioning the chain at the end, here's a couple of links that you might find useful, related to chain tension: Chain Tension, Too Hot To Handle and Creating Tension In A Video.
CS30.1.14: Sprocket Types And Replacement
Sprockets. Types, replacement ratios and how to change them. That pretty much sums up what you'll be expected to tell the assessor in section 30.1.14. Once again, you'll only need to "demonstrate knowledge" of this information, and that means answering a couple of questions. Find out a bit more after the jump...There's only two types of sprocket that you need to remember ("spur" and "rim & spline") and a replacement ratio of 1 sprocket every 2-3 chains. The bit about replacing the drive sprocket only refers to the machine that you'll have in front of you - so for those of you with a Stihl it really couldn't be easier.
With a Stihl saw, you'll have an inboard clutch and it's easy to see what needs to be done just by looking at it. You might find it a bit more difficult with a chainsaw that uses an outboard clutch, but listen in to what the assessment schedule has to say about it...
CS30.1.13: Maintain The Chain Brake
The chain brake is so important, but for your assessment it really couldn't be easier, as all you need to do is show that you know what should be done if you find that the brake on your machine is worn or broken. Click on 'Read more' to find out what the assessor wants to hear...This has got to be one of the easiest questions of the whole assessment; forget about having to actually deal with chain brake springs and brake bands, worrying about whether you have the chain brake in teh side plate housing or integral to the power unit. Nope, all you need to say is that in the event that you find something not quite right about the chain brake, you'd 'replace the unit with a new one."
That's it! To find out exactly what the assessment schedule has to say, listen by clicking on the audio link below...
CS30.1.12: Check And Clean Power Unit
The next section of the assessment is a quick clean and check over of the main power unit. Cleaning the saw will help with maintenance anyway and so it's a good idea to give it a quick once over with a brush or (even better) an airline to get rid of that sawdust / chain oil mix. Find out more after the jump...Whilst your cleaning every nook and cranny of the chainsaw engine housing with a toothbrush (please don't use your usual toothbrush for this - I'd recommend you keep one by specially for this purpose), take the opportunity to ensure that the engine covers are in one piece, that any missing nuts / bolts are noted and then replaced. Chainsaws have a fairly hard life, and you may well be relying on yours for your income so it pays to look after it. Follow the audio link below to hear what the assessment schedule has to say about it.
CS30.1.11: Air Filter Maintenance
This little bit of the assessment schedule is pretty simple and shouldn't cause anyone too many problems; you just need to tell the assessor how to clean the air filter and tell them what it's function in life is. Find out more after the jump...So, it's no big deal - explaining the function of the air filter; the clue is in the name, it's just there to prevent debris from entering the carburettor / engine, i.e. to filter the air.
The assessor will also want to know suitable ways of cleaning the filter both in the field and in the workshop. For more information either listen to the audio podcast, or visit Air Filters on DriveLink.
CS30.1.10: Maintain The Guide Bar
For this section, CS30.1.09, you'll be expected to actually maintain the guide bar of the saw you are using and answer a couple of questions on why the guide bar should be maintained. Find out more after the jump...As mentioned, you'll be expected to comment on the state of your guide bar and carry out any maintenance that needs doing to it. That means looking over the bar for signs of damage or blueing (where it has overheated), as well as checking for signs of burring on the rails and filing these off if present.
Listen to the audio for information on the criteria for this part of the assessment.
For more information on guide bar maintenance...
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